Wednesday, November 17, 2004

Writing Court Community Service Letter

Muddy Water (continued again ...)

Diagnosis my cloudy water was slow but it now seems certain: this is a unicellular algae, a problem commonly called "green water".

retrospect, this seems so obvious that I wonder how I could hesitate.
In fact, water has never seemed truly "green" yellow to start with peat, then white after the action of coal. Only by looking a little tank water in the light of day (ie only a weekend at this time) I saw the famous reflection green.
The photo illustrating this phenomenon on the page devoted to algae the excellent site of Veronica definitely convinced me, highlighting a real pea soup, as my home.

remained two fundamental questions: Why this proliferation and how to get rid?

Why? For now, I lean to the addition of T5 54W. My light is too intense compared to the vegetation of the tank and the current general equilibrium. I will reduce the ignition time and see how it goes. How do

rid? Black, daphnia or UV. More massive water changes and fine filtration (JBL SymecMicro ) to remove the "corpses" of algae.

I started with the easiest way and least expensive: off lighting and blankets on the aquarium for a few days of complete darkness.


07/11/2004: 9 weeks after the impoundment.

09/11/2004: after two days of carbon filtration.

14/11/2004: full black

17/11/2004: a notable achievement

The result is visible after two days and a half: the fog has turned into a light mist. But difficult to continue any longer without risking damage plants or disturb my scales.

Treatment with Daphnia requires removing the fish, if the feast is a feast of algae daphnids. I'll try to cobble together a system that would protect these good workers (with a bottle and a sock filter) to see what it gives, even though this may diminish its effectiveness.

Remain UV appear to have a radical effect (see this thread on ForumAqua ). But for now I hate to buy a UV lamp to use it a few days. A follow

yet ...

PS: Thanks to Peter who guided me well on this problem and Nico offering me a plan for a loan of UV lamp.

whole story:
- J + 9 weeks! cloudy water!
- Muddy Water (continued)
- Muddy Water (continued again ...)
- Muddy Water: end!

Saturday, November 13, 2004

What Mini Van Gets Best Milage

filtration and filter media

As explained in Article " Filtration: filters , all filters obey the same principle: the dirty water is taken from the tank, it passes through different filter materials properties and different roles, and finally it returns own in the tray.
The actual filtration work is performed by the filter media. Without them, the filter would only circulate water.

The different types of filtration: mechanical, biological and chemical

The filter media will retain waste ( mechanical filtration ), treat the water by bacteria (biological filtration ), and retain or distribute certain substances (chemical filtration ).
Each type of filter has its usefulness and is directed by appropriate filter media.

Multiplicity and the relative shares of filter media

A filter material can often be two or three actions (mechanical, biological and chemical).
is the dominating action which will be retained and which will be operated by appropriate positioning in the filter. The same filter material placed at various locations will not necessarily share the same casting.
Moreover, the casting choice of action will be made with respect to those of other filter media. Imagine the mass A good stock mechanical and biological, and mass B in good mechanical and biological action in very good: in this case the mass A will be dedicated to the mechanical action and mass B to the biological action. These reasons

(multiplicity and relativity of action) explain the apparent inconsistencies that imputes the neophyte: what is true in a case is not necessarily in another.

Mechanical filtration

Mechanical filtration is designed to retain particles or undissolved solids suspended in water.

It is performed by filter media acting as nets or porous materials. The particles are retained by two effects: either the particle is larger than the "mesh" of the filtering and is therefore blocked (or surface filtration media) or it is smaller than the "mesh" of mass filter but it will be blocked by getting lost in the maze formed by the filtering and impact against a surface encountered (effect depth or wall).
In practice, this second effect is most often at work.

particles are retained, they accumulate in the body and eventually the seal: the water does not pass (and it's even faster than the surface effect is at work). It needs to be cleaned regularly these media.

To avoid clogging too fast and too frequent cleanings, it is advisable to use in the direction of flow of water masses with "mesh" large, medium and fine: the maximum particle will be retained and clogging will be delayed.

The filter media used for mechanical filtration are: cotton, Perlon (such as cotton wool but with a synthetic material instead of cotton), mosses, some ceramics (to be first to hold the waste very large), etc..

Biological filtration

Biological filtration is designed to treat certain substances by bacteria. This is mainly to implement the nitrification of the nitrogen cycle that will convert the ammonia / ammonium to nitrite and nitrate.

This filtration will be done by filter media that will provide good support to the proliferation of bacterial colonies, while allowing water to circulate around and therefore the necessary oxygen.

This party does not dirty its operation: substances produced (nitrate) start with water. Instead, it should never have to clean this part, because cleaning will be disastrous for the bacterial colonies, which could cause an imbalance in the nitrogen cycle.
The water entering the biological part should be as clean as possible which is why it is always placed after the mechanical filtration.

The filter media used for biological filtration are: ceramics with high porosity, foams, very porous substrates such as pozzolan, etc.. In contrast, cotton and Perlon are low bacterial support.

Chemical filtration

Chemical filtration is intended to retain some dissolved substances in a material according to the physico-chemical properties. We also classify in this category of substances released by a material (eg peat humic acid release).

be found in this part of the coal (incorrectly said to be active), resins (anti-phosphate anti-nitrate, etc.) and many so-called miracle products. Their action decreases with time because they "meet" with the substances they hold.

Generally, these products must be used wisely and never for prolonged periods (except peat), because often there are long-term adverse effects.

Organization of filtration and filter media

In the classical case of compact filters internal or external and internal decantation, must establish the mechanical and biological filtration, and optionally, if necessary, chemical.

The order relative to the direction of flow of water (up and down have no meaning here) will be: mechanical filtration and biological filtration and finally, possibly, chemical filtration.

If the filter is small, we must focus on mechanical filtration while still trying to dedicate a game to biological filtration.

More on this organization in the article "Filtration: an example of organization of the filter" (forthcoming).

See also " Filtration: filters .

Friday, November 12, 2004

Do The 2nd Cervical Caner Jabs Hurt

Filtration: filters

Filtration is essential to balance the tray and without it we should change the water almost every day. The filter is just the kidney of the tank: it will recycle and purify water in the tank. But unlike a kidney, there is no waste disposal: it must be done by hand during filter maintenance. Body
Living the aquarium, the filter should not be stopped beyond a few hours. The principle



filters All filters obey the same principle: the water is removed, it passes through different filter materials properties and different roles, which will retain the wastes (mechanical filtration), treated with bacteria (biological filtration), retain or disseminate certain substances (chemical filtration) and finally back into the water tank.

Different types of filters

There are several types of filters, which have their advantages and disadvantages. They are internal (in the tray) or external (outside the tank). It may be mentioned in the internal compact internal filter, settling internal filter exhauster the undergravel filter, and external compact external filter, settling external semi-wet the filter, filter runoff, filter fluidised sand bed.

In general, an aquarium comes with one of the following three filters: compact internal filter, settling internal or external compact filter.
The compact internal and external filters are similar: they consist mainly of a chamber filled with filter media through which a pump will circulate the water. The internal versions are to be reserved for small tanks (up to 100 liters) and external versions for large bins (from 100 liters). The internal
decantation tanks in pack (or type Juwel Ferplast) resemble finally an internal filter, but with a chamber into several compartments. The name actually seems inappropriate in this case and it is more of a variety of internal filters.


Examples of internal and external filters (Rena) and settling internal (Ferplast)

Other types of filters are to be reserved for the aquarist confirmed magnet experiment.

Which filter to choose?

Let your tank comes with a filter and you can use it at least to start if it is correct and sufficient, or you need to choose your equipment.

The best compromise is the compact external filter : ease of use and maintenance, high power and importance of chamber size and cons risk (almost nil) leaks.
compact internal filter is less aesthetic, limited in volume and less simple maintenance. The settling internal
packs seems more appealing because compact all-in-one, but eventually it shows its limitations in size and maintenance.

The filter is characterized by speed are schedule, in liters per hour. It is recommended to take a hourly rate of about 3 times the tank volume (eg 600 l / h for a tank of 200 l). In practice, the actual throughput will be lower: resistance of filter material, length and cleanliness of pipes, etc.. For a tank with big polluters (like goldfish, cichlids or) it can take up to 5 times. Needless to
too powerful: it will create too much turmoil and may interfere with some fish. Be sure to break the flow of rejection in this case.

The filter is a vital organ of your aquarium. Do not bad economies: take filter properly sized and a recognized brand . The brand seems Eheim acclaimed, but other brands have correct products: Rena , Hagen, JBL, etc..

To continue:
- filtration and filter media
- Filtration: an example of organization of the filter (to come)

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The 10 golden rules for the beginner aquarist

Here are 10 golden rules for any beginner aquarist. They eventually evolve
based on my own experience and feedback. The goal is to identify the key during infancy.

Version 1.0 of November 12, 2004

1. Always make inquiries before acting (and buying!).
2. Start with at least 100 liters (smaller volumes are less stable).
3. Caring filtration: power filter and filter media.
4. Start with at least 1W lighting 3L of water.
5. Put plants (especially fast-growing at first).
6. Do not fish until 4 weeks (peak nitrite).
7. Choose its population depending on the volume of water and characteristics of each species.
8. While introducing fish to a good acclimatization and do not overfeed.
9. Do not use so-called miracles: act naturally on the causes.
10. Make maintenance and water changes regularly.

Please post your comments and feedback .

1. Always make inquiries before acting (and buying!).
The aquarium is not necessarily complicated, but you have to master some basics before starting significant, important meaning criticality but also volume, without being discouraged by seeming sometimes contradictory information. Inquire after the disaster is always a shame!
Websites and discussion forums are useful tools to learn, understand and apply.
Beware of salesmen, whose job is to sell and not advise (some are very good anyway).

2. Start with at least 100 liters (smaller volumes are less stable)
In small volumes (less than 100 liters), chemical and biological equilibria are unstable and accidents do happen. Start with at least 100 liters, but more if possible: a bin is never too big! ;)
only restriction is the budget is almost proportional to both the tray to equipment, decor, plants, fish and maintenance ...

3. Caring filtration: power filter and filter media.
Good filtration is necessary (but not sufficient!) To balance the tray.
In general, it is a pump whose flow time is 3 times the volume of container (eg a 100L, the pump must charge 300L / h). The choice and order of filter media is important to provide good mechanical filtration and biological, chemical or even necessary.

4. Start with at least 1W lighting 3L of water.
You need good lighting for plants (see Rule 5): 10 to 12 hours continuously, with good power. 1W 3L for the medium and is considered fair enough, and 1W for safe and recommended 2L.

5. Put plants (especially fast-growing at first).
plants involved in chemical and biological balance, they provide refuges for fish and are the best decoration of a container: they are very important.
Start with easy maintenance plants, much of which is growing fast. The latter will help to balance the tray by competing algae.

6. Not to fish within 4 weeks (peak nitrite).
During the first weeks the nitrogen cycle will be set up , resulting in the appearance of toxic substances. The late peak of nitrite characterizes the successful completion of this phase. Do not introduce fish before.

7. Choose its population depending on the volume, and water features of each species.
careful not to overstock, reducing living space and increases pollution. A rule for small fish: 1 inch of fish to adult size (not actual size) per liter of water. 100 liters of water used to host a real twenty fish measuring 5cm in adulthood. But some fish need more space: goldfish, scalar botia, pleco, discus, etc..
must also take into account the parameters of the tank water (total hardness: GH or TH) and pH.
Finally, we must take into account the characteristics of species: fish living in pairs or groups, territorial fish, bottom fish, open water, surface, etc..

8. While introducing fish to a good acclimatization and do not overfeed.
Regarding the introduction, ensure thermal and osmotic shock. Method: Cut the light to reduce stress. Put the bag into the bowl and leave for 15 minutes for the temperature balance. Introduce then the tank water in the bag, 4 times spaced 15 minutes (at the end the bag should contain more water than the initial water tank). Put the fish in the tank with a dip net (not to introduce water the bag in the bin!). Wait 30 minutes and turn on the light.
Concerning food, the natural tendency is to give too: fish always look hungry! But food is the primary source of pollution of the tray. Give 2 times daily swallowed a quantity entirely in two minutes. Adapting food for fish: the nature and composition.

9. Do not use so-called miracles: act naturally on the causes.
Brands aquarists offer many miracle products, which are supposed to magically solve the problems of pH, nitrite peak, algae, water disorder, snails, etc.. While some work much, often without addressing the cause and the prices of other long-term problems.
When a problem arises, we must above all understand the causes, to act on them. For example, a significant proliferation of snails is caused by too much pollution. Rather than introducing a product that will kill a lot of things, it is better to eat less.

10. Do maintenance and water changes regularly.
The aquarium is an ongoing and long term. Many ferries sink with interest their owners. A weekly maintenance and regular water changes are a small investment necessary for long-term outcome.

Please post your comments and feedback .

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The 10 golden rules - comments

This page is designed to accommodate your comments and feedback on the 10 golden rules for the beginner aquarist .

Thursday, November 11, 2004

Terrasil In South Africa

Setting up the cycle of Nitrogen: the peak of nitrite

The nitrogen cycle is extremely important (see section ). In aquariums, it allows the degradation of organic waste into ammonia / ammonium and nitrite and finally nitrate. When the cycle is balanced, the rate of intermediate compounds (ammonia / ammonium and nitrite) remain very low, which is fortunate because they are toxic.

But when starting a tank, the cycle must be set up. Indeed, it depends principally on bacteria that must first develop. This installation will result in particular peak nitrite .

Implementation of the nitrogen cycle

Initially, in the tray, there is water, sand, scenery and possibly some of the plants. There are always bacteria that come in, with things introduced or even by air, but in very low numbers.

From a few organic waste that can exist in the tank, bacteria and fungi responsible for ammonification will develop and transform this waste into ammonium / ammonia. These compounds will accumulate, which will result in increased levels of ammonia / ammonium. These

ammonia / ammonium will allow bacteria Nitrosomas (or Nitrosomonas ) responsible for the nitrosation, grow and transform into nitrites, which will in turn build up, while concentrations of ammonia / ammonium go down, ending at the peak of ammonia / ammonium, because Nitrosomas will transform them now as they emerge.

These nitrites will in turn allow the bacteria Nitrobacter responsible for the nitration, grow and transform them into nitrates, which will accumulate, whereas nitrites will go down: it is the descent of the peak nitrite because Nitrobacter will transform them now as they emerge.

So the end of the nitrite peak, characterized by a return to zero nitrite concentration, reflecting the end of the introduction of the nitrogen cycle : All the necessary bacteria are now present in sufficient numbers, and instantly transform toxic compounds before they become dangerous rate.
is why we look at both peak of nitrite.

This implementation takes time, because unlike many bacteria, those of the nitrogen cycle are growing rather slowly (everything is relative: even when their population doubles in a few hours).
Basically, the peak of ammonia / ammonium appears after one week, the nitrite peak between 2 and 3 weeks and lasts several days.
So do not introducing fish before 3 to 4 weeks in the tray, or by the end of the peak of nitrite if you can see by regularly measuring the rate of NO2 with a commercial test.

Foster startup cycle

As we have seen, the cycle begins with the transformation of organic waste, which will constitute the "food" of the first bacteria. A tray contains not necessarily start, which will retard the growth of bacteria.
It is therefore advisable to bring some "pollution" at the start: you can enter the famous pan cooked (or raw for that matter), a piece of meat, or just a few flakes of fish food.
However, the historical method which was supposed to introduce some fish resistant from the start to "pollute" the tank, even at the sacrifice with the peak of nitrite, is now discouraged by any self-respecting hobbyist.

Bacteria will also grow faster at elevated temperatures (the optimum being 35 ° for Nitrosomas and 28 ° for Nitrobacter ): 25 to 28 ° in the tray will therefore.
processes implemented by these bacteria are also very greedy of oxygen, so we must oxygenate the water better.

Avoid disturbing the start of the cycle

Some actions can potentially disrupt the start of the nitrogen cycle by destroying the fledgling colonies of bacteria.

For example, it is strongly recommended to do water changes during the first 6 weeks. Already, their usefulness is almost nil. In addition, removing water, they will decrease the bacteria in the tank, although it is not in the water they are most present. Finally, adding new water unprepared can lead to the introduction of chlorine that will kill bacteria.

But it is even more important that you minimize the filter because it is within the filter media that bacteria will grow in large numbers. We must therefore avoid removing or destroying them by handling hazardous.

How not wait 3 weeks?

Wait three weeks seem long to some (particularly for sellers!) And there are ways to go faster.

The method is to import natural bacteria in from another bin, recovering a portion of filter media or soil, which are both places where bacteria are most numerous (and not in water).

Another method is to buy products. These are of two kinds: bacteria and activators of the bacteria themselves. It is not always easy to know the exact nature and composition of cases produced. Activators will mainly support the development of bacteria, thus shortening the development cycle. The introduction of bacteria is supposed to help get all the bacteria needed immediately. But the weak point is the conservation of these bacteria, either lyophilized or bulb: the bacteria are fragile and they may in fact be all dead.

The problem with the introduction of bacteria is that you do not know if it works. Indeed, if the introduction is working, there is no nitrite peak. If it does not work, there is no peak not before 2 to 3 weeks.

Therefore, unless there emergency justified, it is recommended to wait 3-4 weeks anyway . This will avoid many surprises.

Some details for those who want to go further ...

Another method to accelerate the initiation cycle is the introduction of ammonia or ammonium in the tank to jump to the second stage. More risks than benefits in my opinion.

Ammonia inhibits Nitrobacter : as long as there are ammonia concentration greater than 0.1 mg / l, nitrites will not be transformed into nitrate. Ammonia is present mainly in basic medium, and ammonium in an acid medium, according to equilibrium: NH4 + NH3 <-> + H +. When starting the cycle will delay even more the actuating Nitrobacter and thus increase the duration and magnitude of the nitrite peak. But as soon as Nitrosomas be numerous enough to reduce the ammonia concentration to zero, Nitrobacter begin work immediately.

Tuesday, November 9, 2004

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Muddy Water (continued)

order to move my water problem disorder, I decided to filter on coal. After two days of filtration, the yellow / green is gone, but the disorder has remained for the moment.


07/11/2004: 9 weeks after the impoundment.

09/11/2004: after two days of carbon filtration.

I have the impression that the disorder is fading a bit but it's not really obvious.
In fact, at first glance appears more diffused light and visibility is even lower. But by scrutinizing it carefully, it is believed to detect a very slight improvement.

The next step? Strain through a fine material, such SymecMicro JBL ?

whole story:
- J + 9 weeks! cloudy water!
- Muddy Water (continued)
- Muddy Water (continued again ...)
- Muddy Water: end!

Sunday, November 7, 2004

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J 9 weeks: cloudy water!

event of the week is undoubtedly clear: my water is cloudy!
Already earlier this week, I found it less clear than before, but since Wednesday is the mushy peas!


02/11/2004:
8 weeks after the impoundment.

07/11/2004: 9 weeks impoundment.

I see one who laughs at the bottom! I will copy 100 times " I'm not making fun of this tank even though the pond with my neighbor's pig farmer seems clearer."

I can tell you it's skull under a storm last few days: why? how?
I nevertheless decided to use the primary quality of the aquarium is patience. Reflection and no precipitation. Hercule Poirot and the troubled ferry.

My first thought was to blame peat. In fact, I peat filter and this colorful and slightly cloudy water. 8 days ago, I cleaned my filter and I had the opportunity to shake the sock with peat. Would it have released too much "dust" of peat? As the action of the peat began to fade, I removed the filter and replaced with a good layer of Perlon. Ineffective so far.

The second idea was simply to think of a bad wound in my filter after maintenance. Not necessarily something obvious, but just something that is loose negate much of the filtration. I've mostly thought reading a thread on the forum Aquabase. org where a somewhat similar problem was due to poor filtration. But instead I removed this track after a few checks and tests.

Then I found many references to another possible cause: an explosion of bacteria. Without well find the ins and outs. Cleaning the filter was too violent and would have decimated my bacteria of the nitrogen cycle. The disorder is due to the reappearance of new bacteria with nitrite peak at the end. When in doubt, I brought a dose of bacteria (5 g of Filtrobacter Aquascience ). But no improvement after 48 hours. And my nitrites are at zero.

Without much conviction, I explore the trail of the biogenic decalcification. As described by Veronique on his website: "Sometimes it all the water tray that takes a whitish, milky. One has the impression that there is fog in the aquarium . As my KH is low (between 2 and 3) and my pH between 7 and 7.5 as peat now ceased its action, my CO2 level is indeed low, between 3 and 7 mg / l. But I see no change during the day. I started However, some tests of CO2 out of the craft tray and I intend to take action soon to confirm whether or not this explanation.

Last idea: a single-celled algae, especially diatoms that could appreciate the high silica water source Auvergne I use. But the descriptions do not match really.

Tonight, I decided to use coal Rena Bio Chem Zorb that came with the filter. This will continue discussions based on the result. I'm not for this kind of solution a priori, but we must do something.

However, my fish do not seem to suffer the least. I will monitor closely these days, especially with the hypothesis of possible peak of nitrite. My algae are also excellently! ;) Is it linked to elsewhere? The best part is that my plants have started to bubble tonight! CO2-free and with a very diffused light!

It's stupid but it gave me morale! I needed it. Especially after discovering
blog Nicolas, whose beautiful planted tank is already very Amano. It seems so simple ...



Having such a tank is in any case the goal that drives me and inspires me still. But the road seems to have extended at once. A but ... Here ... Nicolas also has struggled a bit ... A glimmer of hope!

whole story:
- J + 9 weeks! cloudy water!
- Muddy Water (continued)
- Muddy Water (continued again ...)
- Muddy Water: end!

Tuesday, November 2, 2004

Fiire Drill Do Not Panic

The nitrogen cycle: general

Nitrogen (chemical symbol N) is an essential component of life, such as oxygen and carbon. It is This especially in the DNA and amino acids. He moves between mineral forms and organic forms, the main reservoir being the atmosphere, as the air is composed of nitrogen to almost 80%.

Nitrogen follows therefore biogeochemical cycle. This nitrogen cycle is fairly complex, with different sub-cycles, but it can be summarized quite simply by 3 phases:
- fixation: conversion of atmospheric nitrogen (N2) into nitrogen usable by the living.
- nitrification : processing chain nitrogen compounds.
- denitrification : return of nitrogen to the atmosphere.
All these phases are implementing bacteria.

The source of nitrogen for living things evolved primarily the last component of the nitrogen nitrification: nitrates. The plant will feed on these nitrates, plant herbivores, carnivores and herbivores.

In a freshwater aquarium, the nitrogen cycle is almost reduced to nitrification. Indeed, the setting is not advantageous for the bacteria that are already sufficient nitrogen in the tank. And denitrification requires anaerobic bacteria, which therefore do not like oxygen, which is generally very present in the tray.

The simplified nitrogen cycle in a freshwater aquarium is:

  • absorption of nitrate (NO3-) by plants.
  • ingestion of plants by fish.
  • appearance of organic waste: fish waste, dead leaves, dead bodies, etc..
  • nitrification which itself is divided into three stages:
    • ammonification : decomposition of organic nitrogen into ammonium ion (NH4 +) and ammonia (NH3) by bacteria of the genera Bacillus , or Bacterium Micrococcus .
    • nitrosation : transformation of ammonium / ammonia nitrite (NO2-) by bacteria of the genus Nitrosomonas (or Nitrosomas ).
    • nitration : conversion of nitrite (NO2-) in nitrate (NO3-) by bacteria of the genus Nitrobacter .
  • absorption of nitrate (NO3-) by plants, and so on, full circle. If the aquarium
was closed, the cycle would not affect the long term, the total amount of nitrogen remaining stable.
But fish can not simply plant for food. The introduction of food brings additional nitrogen, in particular proteins. This nitrogen is not removed and it will therefore accumulate at the location where the cycle is the weakest: the plants are not sufficient to convert all nitrate products. Nitrate concentration increases with the total amount of nitrogen.
is one reason why we have to make regular water changes, replacing a portion water from the tank with fresh water whose nitrate concentration is lower.

Note:
- Ammonium, ammonia and nitrite are toxic to fish. But nature is well made, balanced in a tray, the bacteria maintain virtually zero, transforming them as they emerge.
- Nitrates are toxic at high doses. However, your fish prefer water with less than 25 mg / l of nitrate. From 50 mg / l, we must act (the maximum tolerated dose for drinking water).
- Ammonium and ammonia are in continuous equilibrium, the first being very dominant in acidic water, the second (more toxic) in alkaline water.

Two articles:
- Implementation of the nitrogen cycle: the peak of nitrite
- Imbalances in the nitrogen cycle (forthcoming)

Some links:
- The nitrogen cycle by Earth
- Biogeochemical cycles per Wikipedia: the nitrogen cycle
- The nitrogen cycle by Marco Pagni (microbiologist)
- The nitrogen cycle by Association aquarium

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point to J + 8 weeks

A big week has passed since my last article, which stood an initial assessment of my work aquarist. My blogguesque
activity is itself dropped to zero! I really need me to deliver, especially as the attendance of my blog is increasing, in direct connection with its listing on Google!

The comparative picture:

23/10/2004: 1 week after the first
gardening , 7 weeks after the impoundment.

11/02/2004: 2 weeks after the first
gardening , 8 weeks after the impoundment.

few words
- The addition of a tube of 54W (2x30W plus original) did not (yet) a blatant fact.
- Otocinclus Two are dead: I found the first dead during my weekly cleaning, I spotted the second bad shape (red gills, cottony foam in the mouth) and he died shortly after. The possible spread of this disease (columnariose?) Worries me a lot.
- The other fish seem to take their habits. I can not get close tray without the cardinals and red-nose rush, hoping for a food distribution. This package is impressive in two weeks!
- Algae are still there, but the types evolve. I have almost seen them all. The proliferation, however, is contained.